Primitivo Camino May 2015: July 2015

28 May - Stage 3 - Cornellana to Bodenaya

Left monastery and started on first climb of the day. Beautiful country side. Walked past hazel nut, walnut and cherry trees. Old towns.

Had my first meeting with mud - was difficult to get up as I was back-heavy. Thank goodness my clothes were in plastic bags. Bloody arm from the brambles.

Stopped for lunch at Salas. Had a most strange experience. When I was paying for my beer and roll, a packet of a banana and another roll was forced on me as a gift. People are so friendly on this trip.

I have started doing something I do in my road at home and that is picking up litter. Wonder how people can drop their tissues or Alcan foil as they walk.

After lunch at Salas started long never ending walk to Bodenaya, the private albergue. Thank goodness I had booked a bed on Facebook last night as the guy with me got the last bed!

Interesting albergue, 19 people 13 nationalities. Dinner was a salad with pasta, followed by lentil stew, and yoghurt. Squashed into sleeping accommodation. Hospitalero was very special.

We took a vote re waking time. We were woken by Maria Callas singing something. Then downstairs for bread, jam and coffee, then off into the mist.

26 May - Stage 1 - Oviedo to Venta del Escamplero - 12.8 km

Left Oviedo. Started to walk to Venta del Escamplero.

Followed metal shells in the road and yellow arrows - became lost many times - association needs to replace and add more direction finders. When I got into the country and the narrow road/paths the way had enough markers.

The roads are tiny roads between small farms. Cowbells with different tones could be heard. Sheep are in the fields. Not sure if these farms are able to support a family or if they are weekend farmers.
Ambled on. Had coffee and ham roll at Lloriana and followed arrows. One arrow said go right so I did, and was scared walking a very narrow path for about 2 km through bush and trees. Alone. Eventually, it came to a widened area and a way marker. Then up a hill, up, up, up.

Stopped at Venta del Escamplero for a lemon and beer drink, and lunch, and decided to stay at the hostel here. Only walked 12.8 kms today, but the next albergue is 14 kms away, too far. The food at this place is awesome. The albergue may be noisy - there are sheep in a field next door!

Dormitory

Noisy neighbours

View of the valley

27 May - Stage 2 - Venta del Escamplero to Cornellana 25 km

Left at 7.30 walking with the German. We walked for about 1 km together, then he went ahead. No bar or shop open at Venta. Thank goodness I bought 2 rolls last night as I ate one walking along. Have just reached the first toilet/bar stop, now at 10.30, probably have walked 9.3 km.

Walked on path/road along a river, sometimes very narrow, other times wide enough for a jeep. Beautiful countryside, similar to Knysna or parts of Cecilia forest before they started cutting. Silence. Birds. Running water. Small farms with hardworking people.

Last night there were probably 20 of us in the albergue, all over 60, and just 2 ladies. So much knowledge capital there, all retired and not using their knowledge!

Walk into Grado fine, gentle, then began the climb. 450 m over 3 km to Alto del Fresnu. Then in addition to the birds, the heart gave off sound. It was hot. I thought - I need a Clara drink - one-quarter lemon, the rest beer. It was a long time before I saw a bar, and got my drink. Today I drank 2 bottles of water filled from local fountains. This route does not have the infrastructure of the French route. Few people, quiet.

Tonight in an old abbey that is being restored so we could not go in. We have lovely dorms, tumble driers, nice showers, and toilet paper. 5 euros. We have a white owl to watch over us.