28 May - Stage 3 - Cornellana to Bodenaya

Left monastery and started on first climb of the day. Beautiful country side. Walked past hazel nut, walnut and cherry trees. Old towns.

Had my first meeting with mud - was difficult to get up as I was back-heavy. Thank goodness my clothes were in plastic bags. Bloody arm from the brambles.

Stopped for lunch at Salas. Had a most strange experience. When I was paying for my beer and roll, a packet of a banana and another roll was forced on me as a gift. People are so friendly on this trip.

I have started doing something I do in my road at home and that is picking up litter. Wonder how people can drop their tissues or Alcan foil as they walk.

After lunch at Salas started long never ending walk to Bodenaya, the private albergue. Thank goodness I had booked a bed on Facebook last night as the guy with me got the last bed!

 

Interesting albergue, 19 people 13 nationalities. Dinner was a salad with pasta, followed by lentil stew, and yoghurt. Squashed into sleeping accommodation. Hospitalero was very special.

We took a vote re waking time. We were woken by Maria Callas singing something. Then downstairs for bread, jam and coffee, then off into the mist.

26 May - Stage 1 - Oviedo to Venta del Escamplero - 12.8 km

Left Oviedo. Started to walk to Venta del Escamplero.

Followed metal shells in the road and yellow arrows - became lost many times - association needs to replace and add more direction finders. When I got into the country and the narrow road/paths the way had enough markers.

The roads are tiny roads between small farms. Cowbells with different tones could be heard. Sheep are in the fields. Not sure if these farms are able to support a family or if they are weekend farmers.
Ambled on. Had coffee and ham roll at Lloriana and followed arrows. One arrow said go right so I did, and was scared walking a very narrow path for about 2 km through bush and trees. Alone. Eventually, it came to a widened area and a way marker. Then up a hill, up, up, up.

Stopped at Venta del Escamplero for a lemon and beer drink, and lunch, and decided to stay at the hostel here. Only walked 12.8 kms today, but the next albergue is 14 kms away, too far. The food at this place is awesome. The albergue may be noisy - there are sheep in a field next door!

Dormitory

Noisy neighbours

View of the valley

27 May - Stage 2 - Venta del Escamplero to Cornellana 25 km

Left at 7.30 walking with the German. We walked for about 1 km together, then he went ahead. No bar or shop open at Venta. Thank goodness I bought 2 rolls last night as I ate one walking along. Have just reached the first toilet/bar stop, now at 10.30, probably have walked 9.3 km.

 

Walked on path/road along a river, sometimes very narrow, other times wide enough for a jeep. Beautiful countryside, similar to Knysna or parts of Cecilia forest before they started cutting. Silence. Birds. Running water. Small farms with hardworking people.

Last night there were probably 20 of us in the albergue, all over 60, and just 2 ladies. So much knowledge capital there, all retired and not using their knowledge!

Walk into Grado fine, gentle, then began the climb. 450 m over 3 km to Alto del Fresnu. Then in addition to the birds, the heart gave off sound. It was hot. I thought - I need a Clara drink - one-quarter lemon, the rest beer. It was a long time before I saw a bar, and got my drink. Today I drank 2 bottles of water filled from local fountains. This route does not have the infrastructure of the French route. Few people, quiet.

Tonight in an old abbey that is being restored so we could not go in. We have lovely dorms, tumble driers, nice showers, and toilet paper. 5 euros. We have a white owl to watch over us.

Such an old building! Built in 1024

! 

Below are images of the reconstruction work, and an owl nesting in the scaffolding.

And pilgrims using the dormitories

25 May - Bus trip Madrid to Oviedo, and afternoon in Oviedo

Up early. Walked to Sol Plaza and took a taxi to the Sur bus station. Bus station organized with Spanish efficiency. Had a coffee, then onto bus. Leaving Madrid land is flat with large fields of green and gold, young grains growing, like the land near Bredasdorp.

Just passed Leon and can see snow on the mountains ahead, 17degrees outside. Seen trees / forest now for first time. Driving through the mountains breath taking. Went past huge dam.

Arrived in city and found hotel. Went exploring and had lunch. Made a bad lunch choice - had Asturian stew, then tuna omelette and salad. The bean and pork stew had my tummy grumbling for the rest of the day and night.

Took a taxi to the Naranco pre-Romanesque palace and church. Amazed at the lack of security and the state of the buildings which had been built in the 880s. Walked down. Foot sensitive. Glad that I taxied up and did not try and follow the directions I had. Glad that was out of the way before the big day.  Later I went to the old cathedral, had my passport stamped and did the tour. Saw the relics. Thought about the past and what people believe in and thought control.

 Naranco pre-Romanesque!  

Evening wet and cold. Could not seem to find a bar that sold food - probably too early. Went into one bar and found an Argentinian tango dance class in progress - lovely. Bought 2 rolls, went home and wrote the diary. Tried to catch up on two nights of poor sleep.

Cathedral in Oviedo

23 - 24 May - Start days in Madrid

Had a really bad night as the drunken people in the bar four floors down spent much of their time in the street and the sound carried up to my room. Slept until about 7. From window saw refuse collectors out early, and people washing the road with huge powerful hoses. Fetched coffee from the vending machine in the hall, yuk. Dressed and ventured downstairs. Went to bar for breakfast of coffee and roll with olive oil. Have just checked Booking.com - other people had same complaint! Should have read the reviews!

Walked to Sol Plaza and then down to the cultural hub of the city intending to visit the Museum of Archeology. Many joggers out doing their own thing. Such a clean beautiful city, huge buildings with ornamentation.

Walked past the National Library and decided to go in, no cost. I am aware that this was a 'national' library but everything was so professional and the exhibition was very high tech. All signage in Spanish, nothing in English. Thank goodness for iPad and Wikipedia. They had an exhibition of Teresa of Avila, well known in the Catholic faith and much on the history of Don Quixote and printing. Not sure how a Rubens tapestry or Teresa fits into a 'library' exhibition and museum.

Went on the Archeological Museum but they were only opening at 13.00 - not my day! So turned around to walk to Prado. Walked past huge building - Palacio de Celibes - went in, modern art exhibition, no cost, fine. Had hand held English guides. Fascinating. Great lunch in museum of fried strips of marrow in humus and honey.

Went back to Archeological Museum. Closing at 3. Had 1/2 hour to look at things - saw red painted Greek vases (wrote exam on them) and huge Roman mosaics. So glad I done the course with Unisa. Tired so went back to hotel to catch up on sleep.

In late afternoon walked to Plaza Real to see the opera house where I have tickets for Fidelio. Had seen signs all over town for Cape Town opera's Porgy and Bess. Give guided tours between 10.30 and 13.00. May take a tour when I come back.

Plaza Sol is one of the busiest I have seen, people wandering around until late at night - buskers of all kinds trying to earn cash. One very slick group did break dancing. Sol is the official centre of Rome.

Another night of noise, downstairs drunk men and next door room TV. I have sensitive ears.